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THE JOURNAL | FOOD & DRINK

What To Pair With:
Asparagus

In this series our teams sit down together to celebrate a seasonal ingredient and find the bottles that make it shine. Here Rory, Head Chef at The Soho Hotel, and Lawrence, Group Sommelier, chat about Asparagus...

Lawrence:
So Rory, the brief but glorious season of English asparagus…

Rory:
When those first spears arrive, you know spring is just around the corner. My favourite is from the Wye Valley - sweet, tender, almost grassy in the best way.

Lawrence:
Which is precisely why we have to be careful with the wine, those green notes give it a reputation for being tricky to pair. Let’s start with the asparagus itself, what are some of the best ways to cook with it?

Rory:
Well firstly, keep the dishes simple and let it shine. Take steamed asparagus with browned butter. It’s all about restraint - you have the nuttiness of the butter, a little salt, nothing more.

Lawrence:
Sauvignon Blanc is a classic with asparagus but I have a local answer for you - Bacchus Fumé, Flint Vineyards, 2024 from Norfolk in England. Bright, crisp and aromatic, the nose is vibrant with pear, melon and elderflower. On the palate, this wine straightens out into something more linear and precise – you have lime, green apple, grapefruit and gooseberries.

Rory:
Taking it a step further, seasonal blood orange is a great addition. Try steamed asparagus with segments of the blood orange and a hollandaise using the zest.  

Lawrence:
For that let’s pour Grüner Veltliner ‘Poysdorf’, Ebner-Ebenauer, 2024 from Weinviertel in Austria. It has great minerality and classic Grüner spice, plus lovely grapefruit notes, which will match the zestiness of the blood orange well.

Rory:
Delicious. Finally, grilling asparagus is so quick and easy but imparts a charred, nutty flavour that is great with a hard cheese like Pecorino, or Berkshire’s answer to it, Spenwood. 

Lawrence:
That calls for Chardonnay, Ancre Hill, 2023 from Monmouthshire in Wales - a serious Chardonnay aged in Austrian oak. You get lemon and green apple, as expected with the cool climate, but also texture and toast from the oak to complement the grilled flavours.